I wanted this book to be about the people who ran the pubs and drank in them rather than about when the places were built and by whom. —George Lockyer

By Tony Orman

I’ve always had a hankering for the good old Kiwi pubs, and by a personal matter of choice, in the rural heartland. Preferably with a real character about them. The personality a pub has often reflects the character of the publican or the couple running it.

Author George Lockyer, described on the dust jacket of the book as a “pub veteran” set out to visit some 25 pubs from Mangonui in Northland to Bluff in the South Island. He deliberately focused on the personalities behind the establishments.

“I wanted this book to be about the people who ran the pubs and drank in them rather than about when the places were built and by whom. Though of course, the important histories of the pubs and hotels are also documented. 

“I wanted a chance to sit down with publicans and owners to discover a bit about their past and what motivated them to choose this demanding but often rewarding lifestyle.”

Personal experience

There’s one or two pubs in his list of 25 that I’ve stayed at or had a meal and a beer or two. 

Tophouse Historic Inn near Nelson Lakes for example. It has a colourful past with a murder carried out in 1894 by a jilted Romeo, who then committed suicide on the steps of the pub. The shot gun pellets holes in the pub’s wood can still be seen today.   I’ve also visited the Mussel Inn in Golden Bay and the Black Ball Hilton on the West Coast. 

But from George Lockyer’s list of 25 there’s several others that I must put a tick by to visit, such as the Royal Hotel at Naseby in Central Otago, the Kurow Hotel in the Waitaki and the Nelson Creek Hotel and Historic Empire Hotel at Ross, the latter two being on the West Coast.

The well-known Capitol of the Whangamomona Republic (!)

For me personally, those in the country and near to a good trout stream or two or perhaps some good sea fishing coast is a consideration.  After all, going fishing for a weekend, a country pub may be the best accommodation, certainly almost guaranteeing a warm welcome and hospitality at an affordable price.

A warm engaging style

City and town hotels also feature. In the author’s list are Wellington’s The Thistle Inn, The Landing in Auckland, Pier Hotel in Kaikoura and several other urban locations.

George Lockyer writes in a warm, engaging style and brings to life the warm personalities of the publicans interviewed. Many are real characters which manifests itself in the style of pub. He delves into how these individuals became publicans, their motivation and their hospitality philosophy. The author touches on any intriguing aspects to the history of the hotels.

It’s well worth getting as a reference book for that weekend away.

Iconic Kiwi Pubs: From Mangonui to Bluff, by George Lockyer is published by Bateman Books, RRP $45.99.