by Wally Richards

PLANTING TIME

This is the very best time of the year for planting trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, garlic, strawberries and other berry plants, also hardy vegetables and annual flowers. This is because the daylight hours are extending, which encourages new growth and the plants will have several months to establish before summer dry spells occur.

It is also an excellent time to transplant any existing plants that you wish to move.

Containers with ornamental plants such as roses or fruit trees that have not had their roots pruned for a couple of years should also be attended to now.

Large plants in big containers will require two or three strong people to remove them from their containers so their roots can be pruned and placed back into the same container. Soaking well the growing medium will allow the root mass to be lifted out of the container easier.

Once out of the pot, lay the plant on its side and with a cross-cut saw cut off the bottom third of the roots.

Put fresh compost into the container up to the level which the third that has been cut off was and simply put the plant back into its own home with a fresh lot of mix and food for new roots to grow into. The plant will have a new burst of growth from doing this. Repeat the same every 2-3 years; if you do not the plant will become root bound and die.

A gardener phoned me recently asking how to give the fruit trees and natives they are going to plant a really good start in establishing — an excellent question and an ideal topic at this time of the year.

A lot depends on the soil type you are going to plant into and if a heavy clay soil or sandy soil then you need to do good preparation by making the planting hole deeper and wider than need be so you can place good compost in base of hole and back fill with same.

In clay soil ensure that you don’t leave smooth sides as it can set like concrete and become a clay pot in the ground, preventing root growth..

In the planting hole you can place some animal manure or Real Blood & Bone along with gypsum.

For trees, put a stake on the prevailing wind side so the tree is blown away from the stake to prevent rubbing. Any stake used should be removed after two seasons so that the tree can become stronger from the buffering of winds,. Otherwise it will never become strong.

An other important thing is that with plants/trees purchased in containers you don’t tease the existing roots out, instead cut through the root spiral and cardinal points so it will produce new roots.

An alternative is with a saw or knife, cut about 20-30 mm off the bottom of the roots.

We have learnt that microbes, mycorrhizal fungi, earthworms and other soil life are of utmost importance to healthy plants and that acidic compounds such as superphosphate and chlorine in tap water kills the soil life. This being so why would one place a fertiliser with 17% phosphorus (superphosphate) in the hole where you want the best for your new plant?

If the plant hates wet feet then to compensate you need to plant it higher than the surrounding soil by planting on a mound.

If the area is prone to drought then plant deeper than the surrounding soil so its in a hollow that will easily catch water when you water or it rains.

If you are wanting to give the plants an extra good start, then drench the soil after planting with Mycorrcin and Magic Botanic Liquid (MBL)

The Mycorrcin is a food for mycorrhizal fungi which attach to the roots of plants and extends the effective root system by about 800%.

The microscopic threads of the fungi gather nutrients and moisture for the plant in exchange for carbohydrates. The fungi also aids the production of humus which is what we need for the ultimate in soils.

The MBL supplies minerals to the soil, releases locked up minerals and cleans up chemical residues from the past.

Doing what I have described would give your plants the best start in the soil that I am aware of, but only part of the plant is in the soil, the foliage is going to be effected by wind, sun and climate; so for one final big help in establishing, it would be to spray all the foliage, under and over with Vaporgard.

Vaporgard puts a film over the leaves sprayed that lasts for about 3 months.

The film not only protects the leaves from the likes of wind damage it also protects the chlorophyl from UV, allowing the plant to generate more energy from sunlight.

The plant benefits with frost protection down to minus 3C, plus the film reduces the transpiration by about 30 to 40%, reducing its water needs.

I have heard cases where plantings in more adverse conditions using a number of the procedures described have achieved a 3- to 5-year head start on the new plants when compared to ones that were just planted without them. These plants struggle for years to establish before they can preform.

Whether it’s seedlings you are planting or specimen trees, the more care you take in the planting will determine how soon you will achieve the results desired.

Rodney Hide and myself did another gardening session on RCR earlier this week. Here is the link if you would like to listen to the advise given.

https://rcr.media/episodes/gardening-with-wally-the-science-of-better-gardening